This is a chapter from an extremely interesting book written in 1908 by the principal of the Glynde School for Lady Gardeners in Sussex. The book is called Gardening for Women, and it’s all about women becoming professional gardeners and everything they need to know for navigating that world: training, how to get a job, where schools are located for more education, what to do when you get a job, etc. And this chapter caught my eye: the clothing you’ll need as a professional lady gardener!
It’s extremely practical, though even still it recommends a skirt rather than trousers or knickerbockers. Such was the times back then! Anyway, I thought this was a neat insight into what it was like to work as a (female) gardener back then, and wanted to share this chapter here– it also pairs well with some other posts on Old-Fashioned Finds, like “A Woman’s Camping Outfit” (1909) (which DOES recommend knickerbockers). Enjoy!
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Dress for Lady Gardeners
From Gardening for Women, Chapter 7
The question of clothes is always an important one to the feminine mind. It is impossible to lay down any fixed rules as regards the costume best adapted to a lady gardener. Chief considerations are neatness and suitability to the climate.
It is best to have few clothes, and to have them good. It should be remembered that lady gardeners usually must brush their skirts, and possibly have to clean their own boots. A small cottage does not afford much space, so nothing should be bought which is not absolutely necessary.
Underclothing.—Wool should be worn next to the skin, both in winter and summer, and the weight of clothes varied according to the weather. A plain fitting flannel belt to cover the waist and abdomen is advisable. This is worn next the skin, whether the usual underwear be merino or not. Knickerbockers, and not petticoats, should be worn. For winter wear, ready-made blue or black stockinette ones are best. Cheap ready-made cotton ones are useful for summer; or they can be obtained in khaki drill, should that material be preferred.
Blouse or Shirt.—This should be of the simplest, untrimmed make. For student days, when there are digging and other exertions to be performed, a turn-down flannel collar, with a tie, will give most freedom of movement. For a head gardener, a stand-up linen collar will give a neat appearance. In winter a flannel or Scotch wincey blouse is warm. For summer, a tussore silk one is cool. Wincey and silk cost more than flannel and cotton, but they wear longer, and do not shrink in the wash, so the expense in the end is the same.
A strong leather belt round the waist will keep both skirt and blouse neat. If one or two swivels and spring hooks are fixed to it, a knife, keys, etc., can be attached, and thus will always be at hand.
Skirt and Coat.—Several of these are needed, all thoroughly business-like and tailor made. The skirts should clear the ankles well, and be very even all round. Nothing looks worse than one that hangs lower at the back than in front. Care should, therefore, be taken to get the tailor to see to this. In rough weather, one should be worn with a 3 in. or 4 in. lining of thin waterproof inside. This enables one to wash off the mud with a sponge, and it will help preserve the dress. Thin waterproof is preferable to leather for this purpose, as it is lighter, and does not hang like a log round the wearer when she has been out in the rain for some time.
The colour of the coat and skirt should depend upon what will least show the soil when it rubs off as tools are handled or heavy mud is walked through. For winter, homespun, Scotch, West of England, or Irish tweed should be worn; a heather mixture or light brown are best, as these show dust less than darker colours. In summer, navy blue looks smart and workmanlike, but will get dirty easily, so it should only be kept for when clean jobs are undertaken.
Blue fishwife’s flannel is inexpensive, and washes well. A loose coat or Norfolk jacket of the same material as the skirt is useful to slip over a blouse when the weather is cold, or after work is finished.
It should be seen that the tailor gives two comfortable deep pockets, and makes a wide collar with a flap, by which it can be fastened at the neck in rainy weather. Unless the necessity of these details is pointed out, he will probably skimp cloth and work. The tailor should be consulted as to the material best suited, an explanation having been given to him of the hard wear to which it will be put. Several colleges and schools for lady gardeners have designed special costumes for their students, but although some are becoming to slim, graceful figures, they are by no means suited to all, and are somewhat too conspicuous to be really desirable.
Waterproof or aqua scutum.—This will be needed for stormy weather and night work; and the latter is preferable, as it is pleasanter to work in than a mackintosh.
Hat.—In summer, a shady, thick straw hat looks best. It should not be “floppy,” as this is troublesome in windy weather, and it must be plain, not trimmed with chiffon or flowers. A bit of ribbon round it is all that is wanted. Although a sun-bonnet is picturesque, it is hot and close, for it keeps off the air as well as the sun. The old-fashioned plan of putting a couple of cabbage leaves in the crown of the hat is not to be despised, should the heat be felt very much. For winter, a soft felt hat or cap will be required.
Boots.—This is the most important item of all, and one, curiously enough, usually neglected by lady gardeners. I often notice that students, when they begin work, wear ready-made and badly-made articles of the thickness only of paper. Boots are better than shoes, but they must be good. Cheap boots are dear at any price. If possible to afford it, they should be made to order, for a good many hours of the day will be spent in them. It is well to have a few nails in the soles; those made of aluminium are best. From 1 to 1½ ozs. will be sufficient for a pair of boots, and the difference in weight between them and the ordinary tackets is worth the extra cost.
Boots should never be blacked, but always greased. This makes them warm in winter and wonderfully cool; in summer they are then really waterproof. If they are dressed once or twice a week with Gishurstine, they will wear well, and keep soft and pliable. A 1s. tin will last a long time. Castor oil, too (the cheap veterinary kind), is also excellent. Two pairs of boots are necessary so that they can be worn on alternate days, and thus be properly dried. There is a foolish, old-fashioned rule in some gardens that the men must have their boots neatly blacked on Monday mornings. This should not be encouraged.
The best way to dry boots, when absolutely soaked through, is as follows:—Take 2 or 3 lb. of oats, and heat them in the oven; when the boots are taken off, stand them in a pail, and pour the hot oats up to the top of the polish. The oats absorb moisture, and as the boot dries they will swell, and act as a last. The same oats may be used over and over again. To clean brown boots Bucknell’s saddle soap is better than any of the patent preparations.
Stockings.—For winter wear, stockings should be knitted of soft, thick wool. Woven ones are the best in summer.
If, when the mid-day hour of rest arrives, boots and stockings are wet through, they should be changed at once. It is false economy to neglect to do this, for a rheumatic future may be the outcome. It will be found, however, that, if they are not wet, there will be less suffering from tired feet when the same stockings and boots are kept on all day. If they are removed, and a rest is taken in easy shoes during dinner time, the feet will swell, cause pain, and blisters will probably rise when a fresh pair of boots are put on for the afternoon. Beginners usually have to put up with tender feet until they become accustomed to heavy boots. For this reason, thick stockings are preferable. It will be found that camphorated Eau de Cologne cools the feet. Another and better remedy is Balm of Bethesda, which can be had from most chemists. The feet should be soaked in warm water, and while still damp a few drops of the balm rubbed in. This should be done every night until a cure is effected. It may be necessary to repeat the remedy each spring when the first warm days arrive.
Leggings.—These, too, are important, and should be of leather, and similar to those worn by men. Buttons or spring fastenings are to be avoided. The spiral strap fastening with a buckle is the most practical, and brown leather is better than black, as it is more easily cleaned. Cloth leggings, gaiters or puttees should not be worn they are troublesome to clean.
Gloves.—Thick leather gloves are useful when working among thorns and thistles. Many jobs, such as thinning out small things, pruning and nailing, cannot be properly done in gloves. When working among wet vegetables, they only make the hands cold, and encourage chilblains. Hands will wash, but it is as well to be provided with a bottle of nail-cleaning fluid, a box of orange sticks, and a little cotton wool. A hand nail brush must not be used, but soap and water should be vigorously applied.
Apron or Overall.—This will keep the skirt clean, and if there is a large pocket in the front it will be useful to keep scissors, a knife, raffia, or string in it for tying roses to pergolas, or picking flowers. A blue serge apron looks best, or an overall made of sacking, with a belt round the waist, is neat.
OTHER REQUISITES
Medicine Chest.—There will often be exposure to rough weather. A bottle of Eau de Cologne saturated with camphor is a necessity. It should be rubbed on the skin after washing, and it will tone it up and keep the surface smooth. It is a good hair tonic, and relieves headache; it also takes away toothache, and twenty drops on a lump of sugar will generally prevent a cold after working in damp weather. Scrubbs’ cloudy ammonia put into a very hot bath is refreshing after a hard day. Quinine is indispensable to those who can take it.
I need mention no other requisites for a medicine cupboard, as, unless one is strong and active, a gardener’s life will not be chosen. The chief risk that arises is that of taking cold, especially when work necessitates going in and out of a greenhouse, and thus being subjected to unusual changes of temperature. To guard against this, a knitted woollen golfing blouse should be kept handy. It is so thick, that it will keep out the coldest, most piercing wind, and can be easily slipped over the flannel blouse when leaving a greenhouse.
Bicycle.—Should there not be a cart for the gardener’s use, a bicycle is indispensable. Visits to other gardens are of interest if only for the sake of comparison. Often, too, by making friends with neighbouring gardeners, cuttings of new plants or seeds can be exchanged. A basket can be fixed to the handle-bars of the bicycle, in which can be put books and papers, whilst larger things are tied to the carrier behind. It will be found useful to understand the management of a repair outfit for punctures. The more independent of outside help a lady gardener is, the better she will get on, and the happier she will be.
Sources
Wolseley, Frances Garnet. Gardening for Women (Cassell and Company, 1908). Chapter 7, pages 55-63. Etext from Project Gutenberg: https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69705
Image taken from PDF scan of the book on the Internet Archive: https://archive.org/details/gardeningforwome00wols
